[PDF] Experience France. Excerpted from Fodor s France

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Experience France

Excerpted from Fodor’s France

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Experience France

France Today

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F R A NCE TODAY It may be a cliché to say the French fret over their place in the world, but they do. Faced with the ever-dominant AngloAmerican axis and hobbled by the global economic crisis, the French are rallying to protect their institutions, their language and, above all, la vie française—their treasured lifestyle. Still, polls show the French are optimistic about the future— and there’s plenty of good news. Tourism is thriving, with France maintaining its rank as the world’s top tourist destination, with more than 80 million visitors each year. The French remain leaders in science and technology. France is the world’s leading producer of luxury goods, and fashion remains the nation’s birthright. No Longer L’Américain Once nicknamed L’Américain for his U.S.loving ways, French President Nicolas Sarkozy isn’t exactly waving the Stars and Stripes these days. Miffed that President Barack Obama has repeatedly snubbed his overtures for a close and personal relationship, Sarkozy has taken to dissing his American counterpart in private as wet behind the ears. Obama isn’t the only world leader who has kept Sarkozy at arm’s length. The irreverent “Sarko” has watched as European heads of state have refused to go along with the brash Frenchman’s view of himself as their selfproclaimed leader. The price at home has been steep, moreover, with the President’s popularity rating sinking steadily. In the face of noisy street protests, Sarkozy has backed off from many of his promised reforms. With the first whispers of the financial crisis came a hasty retreat from the free-market restructuring Sarkozy had trumpeted when he was elected in 2007. These days,

in classic Gallic fashion, he has enjoyed tweaking his “friends” across the pond, even lecturing about the need to “remoralize capitalism.” With an eye toward reelection in 2012, however, Sarkozy was looking to regain the upper hand. Among the feathers in his cap is a ground-breaking carbon tax on fossil fuels hailed by environmentalists. Once-sacred Sunday shopping rules have been eased, no small feat given France’s boisterous unions. And Sarkozy’s legacy project Le Grand Paris—a €21-billion plan to remake Paris into an economic and cultural mega-capital—was creeping ahead as construction was set to begin in early 2013 on key components, including an 80-mi-long automatic subway system ringing Paris. Captivated by Carla Lucky for Sarkozy his best asset may be his popular wife, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy—the supermodel-turned-singer-turned–demure First Dame, whose every move is slavishly tracked by French magazines. The former bad girl has made headlines as much for her turns in the spotlight (performing for Nelson Mandela; signing on for a part in a Woody Allen film) as for her philanthropy (she’s an anti-AIDS ambassador; she has her own charitable foundation). The Italian-born Carla B holds considerable influence over her lovesick husband, and isn’t afraid to wield it. Sizing Up Despite a diet dripping in butter and fat, the French are among the world’s thinnest people, with one of the world’s longest life expectancies to boot. The so-called “French paradox” may help keep them skinny as éclairs, but that hasn’t stopped the French from obsessing about how to stay that way.

Warning bells were sounded, furthermore, after studies showed obesity rates creeping up. French health experts declared war against junk food. Ads for everything from candy to McDonald’s cheeseburgers come with warnings to indulge modestly. Fizzy sodas are not allowed, and butter on bread is frowned upon (though cheese is not). Even the Elysée Palace has gotten into the act. Avid jogging and a crash diet are said to be behind the slimmed-down figure of Nicolas Sarkozy. Much to the dismay of guests, even the Elysée menu has been pared down to Weight Watchers proportions. The French Model Reconsidered And the winner of the global financial crisis was . . . France? Not quite. But long criticized for maintaining a socialist economy out of step with the modern world, France found itself on the rare receiving end of praise for an economic model that helped the country weather the worldwide downturn more gently than its Anglo-American rivals. France-bashers were caught short as the economy they love to scorn enjoyed a slightly higher rate of growth coming out of the recession than other developed countries. With banks tightly regulated, French homeowners were spared an equivalent of the U.S. subprime mortgage crisis. Experts credited France for its longterm formula of economic fairness, with a less-pronounced gap between rich and poor than in other countries. Education is inexpensive; and the health care system, often called the world’s best, is available to all. President Sarkozy even floated the idea, however briefly, of adopting a happiness index to replace traditional measures of progress, taking into account quality of life factors.

Under Siege: The French Café The 2007 anti-smoking law came as a breath of fresh air in France, making meals in cheek-to-jowl bistros far more enjoyable for those who prefer their foie gras without their neighbor’s Gaulois an accompaniment. Since the rigorously observed law passed, cigarette sales have plunged to all-time lows in France, proof the French could live without their clopes. One tragic victim, however, has been that icon of French society—the neighborhood café. Many French workers who would pop in for a smoke with their morning petit café and their evening petit verre of wine simply stopped coming. Business was already declining, as modern life had chipped away at café culture, with fewer young people having the time or desire to drink during the day. Predictions that business would rebound as smokers got used to lighting up outside have not been borne out. With an average of two cafés closing each day in France, café denizens worry about the end of an era. Paris: The City that . . . Sleeps? Fall-out from the smoking ban has had another effect: antagonizing ordinary French trying to get a good night’s sleep. With smokers sent outside to light up, many neighbors of nightclubs have groused that the new sidewalk culture is keeping them awake at night. The new battle lines have annoyed neighbors who use eggs, buckets of water, and the odd garden hose to rout merry-makers. Authorities have now slapped bars with heavy fines and shuttering repeat offenders. The situation has become so bad that music promoters launched a campaign to combat the transformation of the City of Light into what Le Monde called Europe’s “capital of boredom”!

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Experience France

What’s Where

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W H AT’S W H ERE

Rennes

Le Mans Angers

Nantes

Les Sables d'Olonne

Nantes

PAYS-DELOIRE

Angers

Le Mans

3PARIS

Poitiers

Metz Châlons-enChampagne

Sens

4 Orléans O

Metz

LORRAINE LORRAINE Nancy

Nancy Strasbourg

Sens

Troyes

Tours Blois

Loi

Auxerre

Blois

Auxerre

8 Colmar

Bourges

Dijon

Bourges Nevers

Nevers

Beaune

Colmar

Vichy

Limoges

Vichy

Mâcon

Mulhouse

ALSACE

Dijon Besançon

Beaune

BURGUNDY BURGUNDY

Poitiers

POITOU– POITOU– CHARENTES CHARENTES Limoges

ALSACE

Belfort

VAL DE LOIRE

Strasbourg

Troyes

Orléans O

Niort

Saintes

Châlons-enChampagne

La Rochelle La Rochelle Saintes

Reims

ILE–DE– FRANCE

Chartres

VAL DE LOIRE

Niort

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE ARDENNESARDENNES

Mulhouse Tours

PAYS-DE-Loire LOIRE

Les Sables d'Olonne

Reims

2 ILE–DE– FRANCE

PARIS Chartres

Vannes

AT L A N TAT I CL A N T I C OCEANOCEAN

Lorient Vannes

Beauvais

St. Quentin

Beauvais

Cambrai

Amiens St. Quentin

Rouen Se

Caen

Arras

Amiens

NORMANDY NORMANDY

St-Brieuc

Quimper

Lorient

St-Malo

Dieppe

Le HavreRouen

Lille

8 Alsace-Lorraine. Although this region bordered by the Rhine often looks German and sounds German, its main sights—18th-century Nancy, medieval Strasbourg, and the lovely Route du Vin—remain proudly French.

Morlaix

BRITTANY BRITTANY Quimper

Dieppe

Caen

St-Brieuc

Arras

Le Havre

St-Malo

Lille NORTH

PICARDY PICARDY Cambrai

Cherbourg

Roscoff

Brest Morlaix

Boulogne

7 Champagne Country. The capital of bubbly is Reims, set near four great Gothic cathedrals.

Cherbourg

Calais

NORTH

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6 Brittany. A long arm of rocky land stretching into the Atlantic, Brittany is a place unto itself, with its own language and time-defying towns such as Gauguin's PontAven and the pirate haven of St-Malo.

Brest

Calais

Boulogne

3 Ile-de-France. Appearing like all France in miniature, the Ile-de-France region is the nation's heartland. Here Louis XIV built vainglorious Versailles, Chartres brings the faithful to their knees, and Monet's Giverny enchants all.

Roscoff

5 Normandy. Sculpted with cliff-lined coasts, Normandy has been home to saints and sculptors, with a dramatic past marked by Mont-St-Michel's majestic abbey, Rouen's towering cathedral, and the D-Day beaches.

Belfort

Besançon

FRANCHE–FRANCHE– COMTÉ COMTÉ

Mâcon Bourg-enBresse

Saône

4 Loire Valley. Chenonceaux, Chambord, and Saumur—the parade of royal and near-royal châteaus magnificently captures France's golden age of monarchy in an idyllic region threaded by the Loire River.

Saône

2 Paris. A quayside vista that takes in the Seine, a passing boat, Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and mansard roofs all in one generous sweep is enough to convince you that Paris is indeed the most beautiful city on Earth.

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What’s Where

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W H AT’S W H ERE

Poitiers

Niort

VAL DE LOIRE Poitiers

9Nevers Beaune 9

Nevers

VAL DE LOIRE

BURGUNDY BURGUNDY

Niort

La Rochelle La Rochelle

POITOU– POITOU– CHARENTES CHARENTES

Saintes Royan

Saintes

Vichy

Limoges

Mâcon

Vichy

Périgueux

Bordeaux

Bordeaux G

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Mâcon Bourg-enBresse

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Limoges

Royan

Angoulême Angoulême

Besançon

Beaune

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PAYS-DE- PAYS-DELOIRE

Les Sables LOIRE d'Olonne

j Besançon

ClermontFerrand

Le Puy Aurillac

Lyon

RhôneLyon

Rhône

ALPES

Chambéry

AUVERGNE AUVERGNE Aurillac

Le Puy

RHÔNE RHÔNE VALLEY VALLEY

Rhône

10 Lyon and the Alps. Local chefs rival their Parisian counterparts in treasure-filled Lyon, heart of a diverse region where you ski down Mont Blanc or take a heady trip along the Beaujolais Wine Road.

Les Sables d'Olonne

Rhône

9 Burgundy. Hallowed ground for wine lovers, Burgundy hardly needs to be beautiful—but it is. Around the gastronomic hub of Dijon, the region is famed for its verdant vineyards and Romanesque churches.

Saône

Grenoble

ALPES Chambéry

Grenoble

11 Provence. Famed for its Cahors Cahors Lavender Route, the honeyRodez Rodez Montélimar Montélimar gold hill towns of the Luberon, Gap Gap AQUITAINE AQUITAINE and vibrant cities like Aix and Millau Millau PROVENCE PROVENCE Sisteron Sisteron Marseilles, this region was Montauban Montauban Albi Albi CÔTE CÔTE Avignon Avignon Bayonne Bayonne dazzlingly abstracted into Nîmes Nîmes N1 Biarritz N1 D'AZUR D'AZUR geometric daubs of paint by Biarritz 7 7 11 11 LANGUEDOC LANGUEDOC Nice12 Monte Nice CarloMonte Carlo Toulouse Toulouse ROUSSILLON Van Gogh and Cézanne. 12 ROUSSILLON Aix-enAix-en14 14 MIDIMIDIMontpellier Montpellier Provence Provence Pau Pau PYRÉNÉES PYRÉNÉES 12 French Riviera (Côte Cannes Cannes Tarbes Tarbes D’Azur). From glamorous Carcassonne Carcassonne Marseille Marseille Narbonne Narbonne St-Tropez through beauteous 13 13 Antibes to sophisticated Nice, Toulon Toulon M e d i t e r r aMneedaint e r r anean this sprawl of pebble beaches Perpignan Perpignan S ea S ea and zillion-dollar houses has always captivated sun lovers and socialites. 13 Midi-Pyrénées and 14 Basque Country, Gas15 Bordeaux and the Wine 16 The Dordogne. One of the Languedoc-Roussillon. cony, and the HautesCountry. The wines of Borhottest destinations in France, Rose-hue Toulouse, oncePyréneés. Whether you head deaux tower as a standard the Dordogne is a stone-cotupon-a-time-ified Carcassone, for Bay of Biscay resorts like against which others are meatage pastorale studded with and the Matisse-beloved Biarritz, coastal villages such sured, and they made the city fairy-tale castles, storybook Vermillion Coast are among as St-Jean-de-Luz, or the Pyreof Bordeaux rich and owners villages, and France’s top presouthwest France’s most colnean peaks, this region will of its vineyards—like Château historic sights. orful sights. cast a spell. Mouton-Rothschild—even richer.

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F R A NCE P L A NNER When to Go

Transportation Basics

Summer is the most popular (and expensive) season. July in Paris is crowded and hot, although the Paris Plage, the “beach” on the banks of the Seine, is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

There are two major gateway airports to France just outside the capital: Orly, 16 km (10 mi) south of Paris, and Charles de Gaulle, 26 km (16 mi) northeast of the city. At Charles de Gaulle, also known as Roissy, there’s a TGV (train à grande vitesse) station at Terminal 2, where you can connect to high-speed trains going all over the country.

The Riviera sparkles in August— but the notorious embouteillages (traffic jams) on the drive south from Paris can make you wish you stayed home.

Once in France, the best way to travel is by train, either high-speed TGV or regional train. A France Rail Pass allows three days of unlimited train travel in a one-month period. With train service efficient and enjoyable, long-distance bus service is rarely used, though there are some regional buses that cover areas where train service is spotty.

Famously fickle weather means you never know what to expect in Normandy and Brittany, where picture-postcard villages and languorous sandy beaches are never jam-packed.

If you’re traveling by car, there are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, but poor ones between the provinces. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked A for autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies, but can be steep. Note that gas prices are also steep, upward of €1.30 a liter, or about $6.50 a gallon.

September is gorgeous, with temperate weather, saner airfares, and cultural events scheduled specifically for the return from summer vacation, an institution that even has its own name: la rentrée.

Although renting a car is about twice as expensive as in the United States, it’s the best way to see remote corners of the lovely French countryside. To get the best rate, book a rental car at home, and well in advance if you’re planning a trip in summer and early fall. If you want automatic transmission, which is more expensive, be sure to ask for it when you reserve.

Another good time to visit is in late spring, just before the masses arrive, when the sun sets after 9 PM and cafés are abuzz.

Here’s a good tip: If you’re traveling from Paris, a practical option is to take the TGV to another large city, such as Avignon or Nice, and rent a car there.

Unless you’re skiing in the Alps, winter is the least appealing time to come, though it’s the best time to find less expensive airfares and hotel deals—and escape the crowds.

Hours In Paris and larger cities, store hours are generally 10 AM to 7:30 PM; smaller shops may open later. Elsewhere, expect stores to close in the afternoon, usually 2–4. Museums are closed one day a week, often Tuesday. As a general rule, shops close on Sunday, though many food stores are open in the morning.

France Planner

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Tips on Eating and Staying

Fête-ing It Up

Restaurants follow French mealtimes, serving lunch from noon to 2 or 2:30 and dinner from 7:30 or 8 on. Some cafés in larger cities serve food all day long. Always reserve a table for dinner, as top restaurants book up months in advance. You must ask for the check (it’s considered rude to bring it unbidden) except in cafés, where a register slip often comes with your order. Gratuities (servis) are included in the bill, but leave some small change on the table: a few cents for drinks, €1 for lunch, or €3 at dinner. You can leave more at a top restaurant, but note that more than 10% is considered extremely generous.

Spring. Spot your favorite star at the Cannes Film Festival in May (wwww.festival-cannes. fr). The French Open kicks off the last week of May in Paris (wwww.rolandgarros.com).

To save money on food, take advantage of France’s wonderful outdoor markets and chain supermarkets. Just about every town has its own market once or a couple times a week. Ask the people at the front desk of wherever you’re staying to find out when market days are. For supermarkets, the largest chain is Monoprix.

Summer. Avignon sparkles in July during the monthlong theater and arts festival (wwww. festival-avignon.com). French cities and towns celebrate le 14 juillet (July 14, Bastille Day), marking the start of the French Revolution (wwww.14-juillet. cityvox.com).

Some of the bigger stores have cafés where you can sit down and eat whatever you buy, as well as mini department stores that sell everything from clothing to children’s toys to toiletries. French cities generally have good hotel options at decent prices. There are several options in Paris, including furnished apartments, at all price levels. In the countryside, seek out chambres d’hôtes (bed-andbreakfasts), which can mean anything from a modest room in a host’s home to a grand suite in a Norman château or Provençal farmhouse. Or rent a gîte rural, a furnished apartment, often on a farm or a larger property. For more information on accommodations, see the France Lodging Primer later in this chapter, as well as the Travel Smart chapter.

DINING AND LODGING PRICE CATEGORIES (IN EUROS) ¢

Restaurants under €13 €13–€17 Hotels

€18–€24

€25–€32

over €32

under €65 €65–€105 €106–€145 €146–€215 over €215

Restaurant prices are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

Love grand cru? Head to Bordeaux for the wine festival in late June (wwww.bordeauxfete-le-vin.com).

The popular Paris Plage transforms the Seine’s banks into a “beach” in mid-July with palm trees, sand, and lounge chairs (wwww.paris.fr). Fall. Tour France’s most beautiful buildings on the Journée du Patrimoine (Patrimony Day), usually the third Sunday in September (wwww.journeesdupatrimoine. culture.fr). Paris has cultural events throughout September for la rentrée (the return) from summer vacation (wwww.paris.fr). Winter. The Carnaval de Nice rocks Lent for three weeks in February (wwww.nicecarnaval. com). Strasbourg’s famous Marchés de Noël (Christmas Markets) runs from late November to early January (wwww.noelstrasbourg.com).

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G E T TING A R O UND Bus Travel

Car Travel

Because France has invested so dearly in its highly organized national rail network and wellconnected highway system, nationwide bus service simply doesn’t exist.

While the French train network is quite vast, smaller towns—especially in harder-to-reach mountainous regions—may have only limited schedules. And since many route hubs are in major cities such as Paris, there’s often a lack of direct routes in between these smaller towns, requiring a circuitous trajectory to cover a relatively short distance. This isn’t a big deal for visitors with plenty of extra time who are flexible in their travel plans.

Eurolines offers only international routes, so you can get in or out of the country, but there are no routes connecting the big cities within France. Happily, domestic bus travel is managed regionally, usually serving small rural communities or replacing SNCF train routes that are no longer commercially viable. These bus routes, however, tend to be slow, with confusing schedules posted online (and rarely in English). Still, they can often be a cheap and direct way to travel short distances. The Getting Around section at the start of each of our chapters has handy local information about useful bus routes. Remember that it is always useful to visit the local tourism office or the central bus depot for schedules and tickets.

But if you’re seeking the maximum amount of freedom to explore France off the beaten path, then a rental car could be your best option. France’s highways, or autoroutes (A), are well maintained, and generally traffic-free outside certain holidays and metropolitan areas during rush hour, but with so much natural beauty, charming villages and interesting sights along the way, we would recommend sticking to the national trunk roads, or Routes Nationales (RN), which allow you to easily stop to see local site, pick up some fresh produce at a farm, or pull over for a picnic at a lakeside park. Of course, driving in France requires a valid license from your home country, a bit of talent with a map (as a backup to any GPS system), and enough knowledge about the local road rules to stay out of trouble. While there are many pluses to driving a car, there are important minuses. One of the biggest expenses of your trip can wind up being the gasoline, which has been hovering around €1.35/liter (or €5.08 gallon) at this writing. In addition, signage in France can be spotty—we’ve heard plenty of horror stories about half-hour trips turning into two-hour ordeals. Finally, there is the obstacle-course that is parking, with travelers to French cities having to run the gauntlet of meters, parking-ticket machines, parking cards (cartes de stationnements), chaotic rush-hour traffic, and the eternal search for an overnight garage. If you’re determined to drive, however, see our Travel Smart chapter for more tips for renting and driving a car in France.

Getting Around

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Train Travel

Air Travel

The next best thing to flying, and sometimes more convenient, is by France’s efficient railways, from regional trains connecting small towns and villages all over the country to the high-speed TGVs serving major cities.

With a land-mass about 4/5 that of Texas, France presents its own set of transporation challenges when confronting the big question: What’s the best way to get around? Fact is, the quickest and often least expensive option—thanks to budget airlines and competitive rates on Air France—is flying. You can fly in one hour from Paris into Nice Airport (plus 15 minutes by bus into town) on easyJet from Orly Airport (15 minutes south of Paris) from about €40 one-way (without checked bags). But factor in the extra hour at the airport for security, the baggage restrictions, and out-of-town location of airports—budget lines use smaller airports far from city centers. An Air France flight from Paris Orly to Marseille costs €125 while a RyanAir flight starts at just €30 but flies from Beauvais Airport (an hour north of Paris by bus) plus plenty of extra fees. But flying is often the best option if you have little luggage, less time, and travel to major cities.

The best thing about the trains is that the stations are usually right in the center of town, and in the case of Paris, connected to the metro. This means that backpackers can find a hotel within walking distance of the train station without worrying about long taxi rides to and from the airport. Traveling by train also eliminates long security checks and excess baggage fees, and you get to enjoy the scenery as you travel. Managed by the SNCF, almost every corner of France can be reached by train, including about 60 cities by TGV, and thousands more under the regional rail lines including Téoz (Paris, Bordeaux, Nice, Perpignan, and Clermont-Ferrand), the Lunéa sleeper trains (which have 1st class, 2nd class, and reclining seat options starting at €17), iDTGV theme trains (choose “zen,” “games,” or “nightclub” themed atmospheres on 20 routes), and the “TER” (Transport Express Régional) medium-distance trains serving the different French regions. For instance, the Ile-de-France départment surrounding Paris is served by the Transilien network, which links to the suburban Paris commuter rail known as the “RER” (Réseau Express Régional) and the Paris Métropolitan, or Métro. Aside from these Paris networks, which are part of the Parisian Transportation Authority known as the “RATP” (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens), all trains in France are managed by the French National Railway, or “SNCF” (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français). This makes it a lot easier for travelers to find the best ticket whether it’s by TGV or by regional TER, either by the official French site (wwww.voyages-sncf.com) or via Rail Europe (wwww.raileurope.com), which lets you search in your home country’s language and currency before you arrive in France. If you want to remain flexible even after you’ve arrived in France, sign up for their “Anywhere Anytime France e-tickets” for the convenience of ordering your tickets online and printing them at any train station up to an hour before departure time. Read our Travel Smart chapter for the different discount options when traveling by train, including Eurail Passes and student/senior rates.

Word of Mouth “I’ve negotiated the RER trains in and out of Paris with luggage during rush hour without trauma. Use the pull-down jump seats near the doors. They almost certainly will be available when you get on since the trains originate at CDG airport.” —Robespierre

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France Top Attractions

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F R A NCE T O P ATTRACTIONS

Louvre, Paris (A) Home to art’s most photogenic beauties—the Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory, and the Mona Lisa—this is not only the largest palace in France but also the most important museum in the world. Chartres, Ile-de-France (B) Triply famous for its peerless stainedglass windows, as the resting place for an important relic of the Virgin Mary, and as the birthplace of High Gothic, Chartres is more than a cathedral—it’s a nondenominational spiritual experience. Versailles, Ile-de-France (C) A palace and then some, this prime example of royals-gone-wild Baroque style served as backdrop for the rise to power of King Louis XIV. To escape all his bicep-flexing grandeur visit the park to see Marie-Antoinette’s fairytale farm.

Monet’s Garden, Giverny, Ile-de-France (D) A 8-acre “Monet,” these lush gardens were works of art the Impressionist master spent years perfecting before he began re-creating them on canvas. The colors radiate best on sunny spring days. Chenonceau, Loire Valley Half-bridge, half-pleasure palace, this “queen of the châteaux” was presided over by six remarkable women. It was Catherine de’ Medici who brilliantly enlarged it to span the River Cher in homage to the Ponte Vecchio of her native Florence. Lyon, Rhône-Alps The second largest city in France, Lyon vies with Paris as the country’s true gastronomic capital—gourmands flock here for its galaxy of multistar superchefs and cozy bouchon taverns.

Mont-St-Michel, Normandy (E) Once seen, never forgotten, this Romanesque abbey rises from its bay like a shimmering apparition, becoming an island at high tide. French and English fought to dominate the “rock” until the 13th century, when it was crowned with a splendid Gothic church. Strasbourg, Alsace-Lorraine (F) The cosmopolitan seat of Europe’s Parliament, this fascinating mix of half-timber houses and modern glass buildings was fought over by France and Germany—a battle that resulted in a rich intertwining of cultures. Beaune, Burgundy At the heart of some of the world’s most esteemed vineyards, this atmospheric town is inextricably linked with the wine trade, especially during the annual auction at Beaune’s beautiful 15th-century Hôtel-Dieu.

Eze, the French Riviera Spectacularly perched atop a rocky promontory, this watercolor-pretty village has some of the most breathtaking views this side of a NASA space capsule. St-Tropez, the French Riviera (G) Singlehandedly propelled from sleepy hamlet to glamorous resort by Brigitte Bardot, St-Trop today heaves with crowds of petulant glitterati. Chill out in the quiet pastel-hued alleys of the La Ponche quarter. Aix-en-Provence, Provence (H) With sun-dappled squares, luxuriant fountains, and Paul Cézanne’s hallowed studio, this captivating town is just the spot for those who consider café-sitting, people-watching, and boutique shopping a way of life.

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Top Experiences

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T O P EXPERIENCES How will you experience France? Will you wile away the hours in the shops and cafés of Paris? Will you dine at the temples of gastronomy in Lyon? Will you play feudal lord among the châteaux of the Loire Valley? Or will you simply throw away your map and chance upon nestled-away villages of the Côte d’Azur or fairy-tale hamlets of the Dordogne? These suggestions, and the following, await you as memorable experiences for your next trip to France. Walk Like a Parisian Paris was made for wandering, and the French have coined a lovely word for a person who strolls, usually without a destination in mind: le flâneur. In Paris, no matter how aimlessly you wander, chances are you’ll end up somewhere magical. Why not first head to the most beautiful spot on the Left Bank: the Cour du Commerce St-André? Go Glam in Paris Break out your bling in this capital of luxury with a stroll down the Avenue Montaigne to window-shop—the French call it lèche-vitrine (or “licking the windows”)— from Chanel to Céline. Then do some real feasting at Paris’s most legendary restaurant, Le Grand Vefour (lunch main courses are around 100 euros). Rendezvous with the Phantom Want to feel like a Rothschild for no money at all? Promenade the fabulously opulent lobby and theater of the 19thcentury Palais Garnier (wwww.operade-paris.fr)—haunt of the Phantom and Degas’s immortal dancers—daily 10 to 4:30 for free, or get tickets for an evening performance.

Pique-Nique at Place des Vosges No restaurant can beat the “décor” of Paris’s most beautiful square, the 17th-century Place des Vosges, so pull up a bench and enjoy your own foodie fixings. Get them at the nearby Marché d’Aligre market, off Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. It beats those drab supermarchés! Step into a 8-Acre Monet It doesn’t matter how many posters, photos, or tee-shirts you’ve seen emblazoned with Monet’s famous water lilies, nothing beats a visit to Giverny. Savor the impressionist painter’s famous house and gardens (wwww.giverny.org) in person. Trip the Light Fantastique at Versailles Exquisitely choreographed pyrotechnical shows are held each summer and fall in Versailles’s immense château gardens (wwww.chateauversailles.fr). Accompanied by sun-et-lumière music and dance performances, these evenings are fit for the Sun King himself. Plan an Ascent on Heaven at Mont-St-Michel Keep the faith with a climb to the top and get a God’s View of this fabled Benedictine abbey (wmont-saint-michel.monumentsnationaux.fr), whose fortified medieval village is the crowning glory of the Normandy coastline. Become Scott and Zelda on the Riviera Channel F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife at their old haunts and discover their side of paradise: stay at their Les Belles Rives hotel in Juan-les-Pins, visit hang-outs like the Villa Eilenroc at Cap d’Antibes (wwww. antibes-juanlespins.com), or dine with superstars at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden Roc.

Rate the Best of Alsace’s Würsts As you head down Alsace’s famous Wine Road, Hansel and Gretel villages pop up every few miles, and each have winstubs that cook up delicious dishes of choucroute garnie. The inns in Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé (wwww.ribeauville-riquewihr. com) are supposed to serve the best. Pop Your Cork along the Champagne Road The famous Route du Champagne (wwww.tourisme-en-champagne.com) leads fans of the famous bubbly to the prestigious Champagne houses of Epernay and Reims (including Mumm and Taittinger) plus smaller, family-run estates for tours and tastings. Que la Fête Commence at Nice’s Carnaval February is festival time on the Côte d’Azur, with boisterous street processions and a celebratory bonfire for the Mardi-Gras Carnaval de Nice (wwww.nicecarnaval. com). Or march along the citrus-decked parade floats of Menton’s Fête du Citron (wwww.feteducitron.com). Go Castle-Hopping on a Loire Valley Bike Tour From Orléans to Angers, bike with VBT Tours (wwww.vbt.com) along the meandering Loire River past royal châteaux and bountiful gardens, and discover quirky cliffside troglodyte dwellings that house wine caves and mushroom growers. Wear Hip-Deep Purple along the Lavender Route Join the lavender-happy crowds from June to early September and travel the Route de la Lavande (wwww.routes-lavande. com), a wide blue-purple swath that connects major sights like the Abbaye NotreDame de Sènaque, Coustellet’s Musée de

la Lavande, and Forcalquier’s famous market. Apres-Ski the Day Away in the French Alps As home to the first Winter Olympic games in 1924, the ski station of Chamonix (wwww.chamonix.com), set at the foot of Mont Blanc, provides an ideal winter backdrop for all winter outdoor activities. Be a Road Buddy to Picasso in St-Paul-de-Vence Use Aix-en-Provence, Arles, or Antibes as a base for touring the Modern Art Road. Explore picture-perfect villages immortalized by Cézanne and Van Gogh and pose oh-so-casually under the Picassos on view at the Colombe d’Or inn (wwww. la-colombe-dor.com). Play Once-Upon-a-Time in Carcassonne Protected by a double ring of ramparts and 53 towers, this perfectly preserved fortified city (wwww.carcassonne.org) of the Languedoc-Roussillon region is considered to be one of the most romantic medieval settings in France. Attend the Festival d’Avignon This internationally renowned summer theater festival (wwww.festival-avignon. com) features nearly a thousand performances throughout the city, plus hundreds more in the “unofficial” “Avignon Off” festival. Track the Tour de France No tickets are required to watch this famed cycling competition (wwww. letour.fr) as it winds through some of the country’s most dramatic scenery. Why not enjoy a picnic anywhere along the route as the riders race past?

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If you want to get a sense of contemporar y French culture, and indulge

Q U I NTESSENTIAL F R A NCE

in some of its pleasures, star t by familiarizing yourself with the rituals of daily life. These are a few highlights—things you can take par t in with relative ease.

Café Society Along with air, water, and wine, the café remains one of the basic necessities of life in France. You may prefer a posh perch at a renowned Paris spot such as the Deux Magots on Boulevard St-Germain or opt for a tiny café du coin (corner café) in Lyon or Marseilles, where you can have a quick cup of coffee at the counter. Those on Paris’s major boulevards (such as Boulevard St-Michel and the Champs-Élysées) will almost always be the most expensive and the least interesting. In effect, the more modest establishments (look for nonchalant locals) are the places to really get a feeling for French café culture. And we do mean culture—not only the practical rituals of the experience (perusing the posted menu, choosing a table, unwrapping your sugar cube) but an intellectual spur as well.

You’ll see businessmen, students, and pensive types pulling out notebooks for intent scribblings. In fact, some Paris landmarks like the Café de Flore host readings, while several years ago a trend for cafés philos (philosophy cafés) took off. And there’s always the frisson of history available at places like La Closerie des Lilas, where an expensive drink allows you to rest your derrière on the spots once favored by Baudelaire and Apollinaire. Finally, there’s people-watching, which goes hand in glove with the café lifestyle—what better excuse to linger over your café crème or Lillet? So get ready to settle in, sip your pastis, and pretend your travel notebook is a Hemingway story in the making. Street Markets Browsing through the street markets and marchés couverts (covered markets) of France is enough to make you regret all the tempting restaurants around.

But even though their seafood, free-range poultry, olives, and produce cry out to be gathered in a basket and cooked in their purest forms, you can also enjoy them as a simple visual feast. Over at flea and brocante (collectibles) markets, food plays second fiddle. With any luck, you’ll find a little 18th-century engraving that makes your heart go trottinant. Bistros and Brasseries The choice of restaurants in France is a feast in itself. Of course, at least once during your trip you’ll want to indulge in a luxurious meal at a great haute-cuisine restaurant—but there’s no need to get knee-deep in white truffles at Paris’s Alain Ducasse to savor the France the French eat. For you can discover the most delicious FrenchWomen-Don’t-Get-Fat food with a quick visit to a city neighborhood bistro.

History tells us that bistros served the world’s first fast food—after the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to cry bistro (“quickly” in Russian) when ordering. Here, at zinc-top tables, you’ll find the great delights of cuisine traditionelle, like grand-mère’s lamb with white beans. Today the bistro boom has meant that many are designer-decorated and packed with trendsetters. If you’re lucky, the food will be as witty and colorful as the clientele. Brasseries, with few exceptions, remain unchanged—great bustling places with white-aproned waiters and hearty, mainly Alsatian, food, such as pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (“brasserie” also means brewery). Bon appétit!

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I F Y OU LIKE Great Food Forget the Louvre or the Château de Chenonceau—the real reason for a visit to France is to dine at its famous temples of gastronomy. Once you dive into Taillevent’s lobster soufflé, you’ll quickly realize that food in France is far more than fuel. The French regard gastronomy as essential to the art of living, so don’t feel guilty if your meal at Paris’s Grand Véfour takes as long as your visit to the Musée d’Orsay: two hours for a three-course menu is par, and you may, after relaxing into the routine, feel pressured at less than three. Gastronomads—those who travel to eat— won’t want to miss a pilgrimage out to Mougins to witness the culinary fireworks of chef Alain Llorca, whose name reveals his Basque roots. These days, la haute cuisine in the States and England is nearly as rare as Tibetan food, so plan on treating dining as religiously as the French do—at least once. MM Le Grand Véfour, Paris. Guy Martin’s Savoyard creations are extraordinaire, but the 18th-century decor is almost more delicious. MM Le Moulin de Mougins, Mougins. Master chef Alain Llorca marries grand cuisine with humble Provençal touches—don’t be surprised to find octopus in your bouillabaisse. MM Le Louis XV, Monaco. If you’re going to feast like a king, this Alain Ducasse outpost is the place to do it.

La Vie de Châteaux From the humblest feudal ruin to the most delicate Loire Valley spires to the grandest of Sun King spreads, the châteaux of France evoke the history of Europe as no museum can. Standing on their castellated ramparts, it is easy to slip into the role of a feudal lord scrambling to protect his patchwork of holdings from kings and dukes. The lovely landscape takes on a strategic air and you find yourself roleplaying thus, whether swanning aristocratically over Chenonceau’s bridgelike galerie de bal spanning the River Cher or curling a revolutionary lip at the splendid excesses of Versailles. These are, after all, the castles that inspired Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty and Beauty and the Beast, and their fairy-tale magic—rich with history and Disney-free—still holds true. Better yet, enjoy a “queen-for-a-stay” night at one of France’s many châteaux-hotels. Many are surprisingly affordable—even though some bathrooms look like they should be on a postcard. MM Château de la Bourdaisière, Loire Valley.

Not one but two princes de Broglie welcome you to this idyllic and elegant neoRenaissance hotel. MM Vaux-le-Vicomte, Ile-de-France. Louis XIV was so jealous when he saw this 17th-century Xanadu that he commissioned Versailles. MM Chambord, Loire Valley. This French Renaissance extravaganza—all 440 rooms and 365 chimneys—will take your breath away. Be sure to go up the down staircase designed by da Vinci. MM Château d’Ussé, Loire Valley. Step into a fairy tale at Sleeping Beauty’s legendary home.

Beautiful Villages Nearly everyone has a mind’s-eye view of the perfect French village. Oozing half-timber houses and roses, these onceupon-a-time-ified villages have a sense of tranquillity not even tour buses can ruin. The Loire Valley’s prettiest village, Saché, is so small it seems your own personal property—an eyebrow of cottages, a Romanesque church, a 17th-century auberge inn, and a modest château. Little wonder Honoré de Balzac came here to write some of his greatest novels. Auverssur-Oise, the pretty riverside village in the Ile-de-France, inspired some of Van Gogh’s finest landscapes. In the Dordogne region, hamlets have a Walt Disney–like quality, right down to Rapunzel windows, flocks of geese, and storks’-nest towers. Along the Côte d’Azur you’ll find the sky-kissing, hilltop villages perchés, like Èze. All in all, France has an embarras de richesses of nestled-away treasures— so just throw away the map. After all, no penciled itinerary is half as fun as stumbling upon some half-hidden Brigadoon. MM Riquewihr, Alsace. Full of storybook buildings, cul-de-sac courtyards, and stone gargoyles, this is the showpiece of the Alsatian Wine Route. MM Haut-de-Cagnes, French Riviera. This perfect example of the eagle’s-nest village near the coast is nearly boutique-free, was once adored by Renoir, and remains ancient in atmosphere. MM La Roque-Gageac, Dordogne. Lorded over by its immense rock cliff, this centuries-old riverside village is the perfect backdrop for a beautiful pique-nique.

Monet, Manet, and Matisse It is through the eyes of its artists that many first get to know France. No wonder people from across the globe come to search for Gauguin’s bobbing boats at Pont-Aven, Monet’s bridge at Giverny, and the gaslit Moulin Rouge of ToulouseLautrec—not hung in a museum but alive in all their three-dimensional glory. In Arles you can stand on the spot where Van Gogh painted and compare his perspective to a placard with his finished work; in Paris you can climb into the garretatelier where Delacroix created his epic canvases, or wander the redolent streets of Montmartre, once haunted by Renoir, Utrillo, and Modigliani. Of course, an actual trip to France is not necessary to savor this country: a short visit to any major museum will probably just as effectively transport the viewer—by way of the paintings of Pisarro, Millet, Poussin, Sisley, and Matisse—to its legendary landscapes. But go beyond museums and discover the actual towns that once harbored these famed artists. MM St-Paul-de-Vence, Côte d’Azur. Pose ohso-casually under the Picassos at the famed Colombe d’Or inn, once favored by Signac, Modigliani, and Bonnard. MM Céret, Languedoc-Roussillon. Pack your crayons for a trip to Matisse Country, for this is where the artist fell in love with the fauve (savage) hues found only in Mother Nature. MM Giverny, Ile-de-France. Replacing paint and water with earth and water, Monet transformed his 5-acre garden into a veritable live-in Impressionist painting.

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Le Shopping Although it’s somewhat disconcerting to see Gap stores gracing almost every major street corner in Paris and other urban areas in France, if you take the time to peruse smaller specialty shops, you can find rare original gifts—be it an antique brooch from the 1930s or a modern vase crafted from Parisian rooftop-tile zinc. It’s true that the traditional gifts of silk scarves, perfume, and wine can often be purchased for less in the shopping mall back home, but you can make an interesting twist by purchasing a vintage Hermès scarf, or a unique perfume from an artisan perfumer. Bargaining is traditional in outdoor and flea markets, antiques stores, small jewelry shops, and craft galleries, for example. If you’re thinking of buying several items, or if you’re simply in love with something a little bit too expensive, you’ve nothing to lose by cheerfully suggesting to the proprietor, “Vous me faites un prix?” (“How about a discount?”) The small businessperson will immediately size you up, and you’ll have some good-natured fun. MM Colette, Paris. Wiggle into the ultimate little black dress at this fashionista shrine. MM L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Provence. This canal-laced town becomes a Marrakech of marketeers on Sunday, when dazzling brocante (antiques) dealers set up shop. MM Grain de Vanille, Cancale. These sublime tastes of Brittany—salted butter caramels, rare honeys, and malouine cookies—make great gifts, non?

Gothic Churches and Cathedrals Their extraordinary permanence, their everlasting relevance even in a secular world, and their transcendent beauty make the Gothic churches and cathedrals of France a lightning rod if you are in search of the essence of French culture. The product of a peculiarly Gallic mix of mysticism, exquisite taste, and high technology, France’s 13th- and 14th-century “heavenly mansions” provide a thorough grounding in the history of architecture (some say there was nothing new in the art of building between France’s Gothic arch and Frank Lloyd Wright’s cantilevered slab). Each cathedral imparts its own monumental experience—kneeweakening grandeur, a mighty resonance that touches a chord of awe, and humility in the unbeliever. Even cynics will find satisfaction in these edifices’ social history—the anonymity of the architects, the solidarity of the artisans, and the astonishing bravery of experiments in suspended stone. MM Notre-Dame, Paris. Make a face back at the gargoyles high atop Quasimodo’s home. MM Reims, Champagne. Tally up the 34 VIPs crowned at this magnificent edifice, the age-old setting for the coronations of French kings. MM Chartres, Ile-de-France. Get enlightened with France’s most beautiful stained-glass windows. MM Mont-St-Michel, Normandy. From its silhouette against the horizon to the abbey and gardens at the peak of the rock, you’ll never forget this awe-inspiring sight.

L’Esprit Sportif Though the physically inclined would consider walking across Scotland or bicycling across Holland, they often misconstrue France as a sedentary country where one plods from museum to château to restaurant. But it’s possible to take a more active approach: imagine pedaling past barges on the Saône River or along slender poplars on a route départementale (provincial road); hiking over Alpine meadows near Megéve; or sailing the historic ports of Honfleur or Antibes. Experiencing this side of France will take you off the beaten path and into the countryside. As you bike along French country roads or along the extensive network of Grands Randonnées (Lengthy Trails) crisscrossing the country, you will have time to tune into the landscape—to study crumbling garden walls, smell the honeysuckle, and chat with a farmer in his potager (vegetable garden). MM The VBT Loire Biking Tour. Stunning châteaux-hotels, Pissarro-worthy riverside trails, and 20 new best friends make this a fantastique way to go “around the whirl.” MM Sentier des Cascades, Haute-Pyrénées.

Near Cauterets is the GR10 walk, which features stunning views of the famous waterfalls and abundant marmottes (Pyrenean groundhogs). MM Tracking the Camargue Reserve, Provence.

Take an unforgettable promenade équestre (horseback tour) of this amazing nature park, home to bulls and birds— 50,000 flamingos, that is.

Clos Encounters Bordeaux or Burgundy, Sauternes or Sancerre, Romanée-Conti or Côte du Rhône—wherever you turn in France, you’ll find famous Gallic wine regions and vineyards, born of the country’s curvaceous landscape. Speckled unevenly with hills, canals, forests, vineyards, châteaux, and the occasional cow clinging to 30-degree inclines, the great wine regions of France attract hordes of travelers more interested in shoving their noses deep into wine glasses than staring high into the stratosphere of French cathedral naves. Fact is, you can buy the bottles of the fabled regions—the Côte d’Or, the Rhône Valley, or that oenophile’s nirvana, Bordeaux—anywhere, so why not taste the lesser-known local crus from, say, the lovely vineyards in the Loire Valley. Explore the various clos (enclosures) and côtes (hillsides) that grow golden by October, study the vendangeur grape-pickers, then drive along the wine routes looking for those “Dégustation” signs, promising free sips from the local vintner. Pretty soon you’ll be an expert on judging any wine’s aroma, body, and backwash. MM Mouton-Rothschild,

Route de Médoc.

Baron Philippe perfected one of the great five premiers crus here—and there’s a great visitor center. MM Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy. A historic wine-making barn, 13th-century grape presses, and its verdant vineyard make this a must-do. MM The Alsace Route de Vin. Between Mulhouse and Strasbourg, many picture-book villages entice with top vintners.

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H I S T ORY YOU C A N SEE France has long been the standard bearer of Western civilization—without her, neither English liberalism nor the American Constitution would exist today. It has given us Notre Dame, Loire châteaux, Versailles, Stendhal, Chardin, Monet, Renoir, and the most beautiful city in the world, Paris. So it is no surprise that France unfolds like a gigantic historical pop-up book. To help you understand the country’s masterful mélange of old and new, here’s a quick overview of La Belle France’s stirring historical pageant. Ancient France France’s own “Stonehenge”—the megalithic stone complexes at Carnac in Brittany (circa 3500 BC)—were created by the Celts, who inhabited most of northwest Europe during the last millenniums BC. In the 1st century BC Julius Caesar conquered Gaul, and the classical civilizations of the Mediterranean soon made artistic inroads. The Greek trading colonies at Marseille eventually gave way to the Roman Empire, with the result that ancient Roman aesthetics left a lasting impression: it is no accident that the most famous modern example of a Roman triumphal arch—the Arc de Triomphe—should have been built in Paris. 58–51 BC Caesar’s conquest of Gaul 800 AD

Charlemagne made Holy Roman Emperor

1066

William of Normandy invades England with victory at the Battle of Hastings

12th–13th Cathedrals of Notre Dame and Chartres. century 1431

Joan of Arc burned; from lowest point, French nation revived

1572

St. Bartholomew Massacre of Protestants

What to See: France possesses examples

of ancient Roman architecture that even Italy cannot match: Provence, whose name comes from the Latin, had been one of the most popular places to holiday for the ancient Romans. The result is that you can find the best preserved Roman arena in Nimes (along with the Maison Carrée), the best preserved Roman theater at Orange, and the best preserved Roman bridge aqueduct, the Pont du Gard. The Middle Ages: From Romanesque to Gothic By the 7th century AD Christianity was well established throughout France. Its interaction with an inherited classical tradition produced the first great indigenous French culture, the Frankish or Merovingian, created by the Franks (who gave their name to the new nation), Germanic tribes who succeeded in expelling the Romans from French soil. Various French provinces began to unite as part of Charlemagne’s new Holy Roman Empire and, as a central core of European Catholicism, France now gave rise to great monastic centers—Tours, Auxerre, Reims, and Chartres—that were also cultural powerhouses. After the Crusades, more settled conditions led to the flowering of the

Romanesque style developed by reformist monastic orders like the Benedictines at Cluny. This then gave way to the Gothic, which led to the construction of many cathedrals—perhaps the greatest architectural achievement created in France— during the biggest building spree of the Middle Ages. Under the Capetian kings, French government became more centralized. The most notable king was Louis IX (1226–70), known as Saint Louis, who left important monuments in the Gothic style, which lasted some 400 years and gained currency throughout Europe. What to See: The Romanesque style sprang out of the forms of classical art left by the Romans and its top artistic landmarks adorn Burgundy: the giant transept of Cluny, the sculptures of Gislebertus at Autun’s Cathèdrale St-Lazare, and the amazing tympanum of the Basilique Ste-Madeleine at Vézelay. Another top Romanesque artwork is in Normandy: the Bayeux Tapestry on view in Bayeux. The desire to span greater area with stone and to admit more light led to the development of the new Gothic style. This became famed for its use of the pointed arch and the rib vault, resulting in an essentially skeletal structure containing large areas of glass.

1580– 87

Montaigne’s Essays

1799– 1804

Napoléon rules as First Consul of the Consulate

1678

Louis XIV adds the Hall of Mirrors to Versailles

1805– 12

Napoléon conquers large parts of Europe but is defeated in Russia

18th century

Zenith of French enlightenment and influence, thanks to Molière, Racine, Voltaire, Diderot, and Rousseau

1815

1789– 92

The French Revolution

1793

Queen Marie-Antoinette is guillotined on Paris’s Place de la Concorde

First fully developed at Notre Dame, Paris (from 1163), Chartres (from 1200), Reims (from 1211), and Amiens (from 1220), the Gothic cathedral contains distinctive Gothic forms: delicate filigree-like rose windows of stained glass, tall lancet windows, elaborately sculpted portails, and “flying buttresses.” King Louis IV commissioned Paris’s Sainte-Chapelle chapel in the 1240s and it remains the most beautiful artistic creation of the Middle Ages. The Renaissance France nationalism came to the fore once the tensions and wars fomented by the warring clans of the Houses of Anjou and Capet climaxed in the Hundred Years’ War (1328–1453). During this time, Joan of Arc helped drive English rulers from France with the Valois line of kings taking the throne. From the late 15th century into the 16th, the golden light of the Italian Renaissance then dawned over France. This was due, in large measure, to King François I (accession 1515), who returned from wars in Italy with many Italian artists and craftsmen, among them Leonardo da Vinci (who lived in Amboise from 1507). With decades of peace, fortresses soon became châteaux and the picture palaces of the Loire Valley came 1870

Franco-Prussian War; France defeated, but Flaubert and Baudelaire writing

1871

Alsace-Lorraine ceded to Germany

Napoléon loses battle at Waterloo to England’s Duke of Wellington

1940

France surrenders to Germany during World War II: Paris falls

1848– 70

The Second Empire, ruled by Emperor Napoléon III, with colonial expansion into Indochina, Syria, and Mexico

1958

General de Gaulle elected president

1969

1863

Impressionists show at the Salon des Refusés in Paris

Student riots in Paris; government is subsequently stabilized through presidents including Georges Pompidou, François Mitterand, and Nicolas Sarkozy

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into being. The grandest of these, Fontainebleau and Chambord, reflected the growing centralization of the French court and were greatly influenced by the new Italian styles. What to See: An earnest desire to rival and outdo Italy in cultural pursuits dominated French culture during the 15th and 16th centuries. For the decoration of the new Palace of Fontainebleau (from 1528) artists like Cellini, Primaticcio, and Rosso used rich colors, elongated forms, and a concentration upon allegory and eroticism to help cement the Mannerist style. Gothic and vernacular forms of architecture were now rejected in favor of classical models, as could be seen in the châteaux in the Loire Valley such as Blois (from 1498), Chambord (from 1519, where design elements were created by Leonardo), and Chenonceau, which was commissioned by the king’s mother, Catherine de’ Medici. The rebuilding of Paris’s Louvre, begun in 1546, marked the final assimilation of Italian classical architecture into France. Royal Absolutism and the Baroque Style Rising out of the conflicts between Catholic and Protestant (thousands of Huguenots were murdered in the St. Bartholomew’s Day massacre of 1572), King Henry IV became the first Bourbon king and fomented religious tolerance with the Edict of Nantes (1598). By the 17th century architecture still had an Italianate flavor, as seen in the Roman Baroque forms adorning Parisian churches. The new Baroque architectural taste for largescale town planning gave rise to the many squares that formed focal points within cities. King Louis XIV, the Sun King, came to the throne in 1643, but he chose to rule from a new power base he built outside

Paris: Versailles soon became a symbol of the absolutist court of the Sun King and the new insatiable national taste for glory. But with Louis XIV, XV, and XVI going for broke, a reaction against extravagance and for logic and empirical reason took over. Before long, writers like Jean-Jacques Rousseau argued for social and political reform—the need for revolution. What to See: To create a more carefully ordered aristocratic bureaucracy, courtiers were commanded to leave their family châteaux and take up residence in the massive new Versailles palace. A golden age for art began, since patronage of the arts enjoyed almost equal expenditure to that lavished on Louis’s continual wars. The palaces of the Louvre (1545–1878) and Versailles (1661–1756) bear witness to this in their sheer scale. “After me, the deluge,” Louis XIV said, and early 18th-century France was on the verge of bankruptcy. In turn, the court turned away from the over-the-top splendor of Versailles and Paris’s Luxembourg Palace to retreat to smaller, more domestic houses in Paris, seen in such hôtel particuliers as the Musée Nissim de Camondo and the charming Hameau farm created for MarieAntoinette in Versailles’ park. Bombastic Baroque gave way to the Rococo style, as the charming, feminine paintings of Watteau, Boucher, and Fragonard provided cultural diversions for an aristocracy withdrawn from the stage of power politics. Find their masterpieces at the Louvre, Carnavalet, and other museums. Revolution and Romanticism The end of Bourbon rule came with the execution of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. The French Revolution ushered in the First Republic (1792–1804). After a backlash to the Terror (1793–94), in which

hundreds were guillotined, Napoléon rose to power from the ashes of the Revolutionary Directoire. With him a new intellectual force and aesthetic mode came to the fore—Romanticism. With lucid introspection, this new style revolved around inner emotions and the personal self, leading to the withdrawal of the artists from politics, growing industrialization, and urbanization into a more subjective world. Napoléon’s First Empire (1804– 14) conquered most of Europe, but after the disastrous Russian invasion the Bourbon dynasty was restored with the rule of Charles X and Louis-Philippe. The latter, known as the Citizen King, abdicated in 1848 and made way for the Second Republic and the return of Napoleonic forces with Napoléon III’s Second Empire (1852–70). What to See: As often happens, art is one step ahead of history. The design of Paris’s Panthéon by Soufflot, Gabriel’s refined Petit Trianon at Versailles (1762), and the paintings of Greuze (1725–1805) and David (1745–1825), on view at the Louvre, display a conceit for moral order in great contrast to the flippancies of Fragonard. A renewed taste for classicism was seen in the Empire style promulgated by Napoléon; see the emperor’s Paris come alive at the Left Bank’s charming Cour du Commerce St-André and his shrine, Les Invalides. But the rigidly formal Neoclassical style soon gave way to Romanticism, whose touchstones are immediacy of technique, emotionalism, and the ability to convey the uncertainties of the human condition. Go to Paris’s Musée Delacroix to get an up-close look at this expresive, emotive master of Romanticism.

The Modern Age Begins

Napoléon’s III’s Second Empire lead to the

vast aggrandization of France on the world stage, with colonies set up across the globe, a booming economy, and the capital city of Paris remade into Europe’s showplace thanks to Baron Haussman. After the Prussians invaded, France was defeated and culture was shattered and reformed. Romanticism became Realism, often carrying strong social overtones, as seen in the works of Courbet. The closer reexamination of reality by the Barbizon School of landscape painters lead to Impressionism, whose masters approached their subjects with a fresh eye, using clear, bright colors to create atmospheric effects and naturalistic observation. By 1870 French rule was reinstated with the Third Republic, which lasted until 1940. What to See: Thanks to Haussman, Paris became the City of Light, with new large boulevards opening up the dark urban city, an outlook culminating in the Eiffel Tower, built for the Paris Exposition of 1889. Taking modern life as their subject matter, great Impressionist masters like Monet (1840–1926), Renoir (1841–1919), and Degas (1834–1917) proceeded to break down visual perceptions in terms of light and color, culminating in the late series of Waterlily paintings (from 1916) done at Monet’s Giverny estate. Along with masterpieces by Degas, Gauguin, Van Gogh, and Cézanne, the most famous Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings can be seen at Paris’s famed Musée d’Orsay. These artists began the myth of the Parisian Bohemian artist, the disaffected idealist kicking at the shins of tradition, and they forged the path then boldly trod by the greatest artist of the 20th century, Picasso, whose works can be seen at Paris’s Musée Picasso and Centre Beaubourg.

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G R E AT I T I N ERARIES T H E G OOD LIFE Beginning in château country, head south and west, through Cognac country into wine country around Bordeaux. Then lose yourself in the Dordogne, a landscape of rolling hills peppered with medieval villages, fortresses, and prehistoric caves. Loire Valley Châteaux 3 or 4 days. Base yourself at the crossroads of Blois, starting with its multi-era château. Then head for the huge château in Chambord. Amboise’s château echoes with history, and the neighboring manor, Clos Lucé, was Leonardo da Vinci’s final home—or instead of this “town” château, head west to the tiny village of Rigny-Ussé for the Sleeping Beauty castle of Ussé. Heading southeast, finish up at Chenonceau—the most magical one of all—then return to the transportation hub city of Tours. FThe Loire Valley in Chapter 4 Bordeaux Wine Country 2 days. Pay homage to the great names of Médoc, north of the city of Bordeaux, though the hallowed villages of Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac, and St-Estèphe aren’t much to look at. East of Bordeaux, via the prettier Pomerol vineyards, the village of St-Émilion is everything you’d want a wine town to be, with ramparts and medieval streets. FBordeaux in Chapter 15 Dordogne and Périgord 2 or 3 days. Follow the famous Dordogne River east to the half-timber market town of Bergerac. Wind through the green, wooded countryside into the region where humans’ earliest ancestors left their mark, in the caves in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac and the famous Grotte de Lascaux. Be sure to sample the region’s culinary specialties: truffles, foie gras, and preserved duck. Then travel south to the stunning and skyhigh village of Rocamadour. FDordogne in Chapter 16

By Public Transportation It’s easy to get to Blois and Chenonceaux by rail, but you’ll need to take a bus to visit other Loire châteaux. Forays farther into Bordeaux country and the Dordogne are difficult by train, involving complex and frequent changes (Limoges is a big railway hub). Further exploration requires a rental car or sometimes unreliable bus routes.

FRANCE FRO M NORTH TO S O U T H Zoom from Paris to the heart of historic Burgundy, its rolling green hills traced with hedgerows and etched with vineyards. From here, plunge into the arid beauty of Provence and toward the spectacular coastline of the Côte d’Azur. Burgundy Wine Country 2 to 3 days. Base yourself in the market town of Beaune and visit its famous hospices and surrounding vineyards. Make a day trip to the ancient hill town of Vézelay, with its incomparable basilica, stopping in Autun to explore Roman ruins and its celebrated Romanesque cathedral. For more vineyards, follow the Côte d’Or from Beaune to Dijon. Or make a beeline to Dijon, with its charming Vieille Ville and fine museums. From here it’s a two-hour drive to Lyon, where you can feast on this city’s famous earthy cuisine. Another three hours’ push takes you deep into the heart of Provence. FBurgundy in Chapter 9 and Lyon in Chapter 10 Arles and Provence 2 to 3 days. Arles is the atmospheric, sundrenched southern town that inspired Van Gogh and Gauguin. Make a day trip into grand old Avignon, home to the 14th-century rebel popes, to view their imposing palace. And make a pilgrimage to the Pont du Gard, the famous triple-tiered Roman aqueduct west of Avignon. From here two

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Nice Antibes St-JeanCap-Ferrat Cap d'Antibes Cannes Villefranche

Marseille

hours’ drive will bring you to the glittering Côte d’Azur. FArles, Avignon, and Pont du Gard in Chapter 11 Antibes and the French Riviera 2 to 3 days. This historic and atmospheric port town is well positioned for day trips. First, head west to glamorous Cannes. The next day head east into Nice, with its exotic Vieille Ville and its bounty of modern art. There are ports to explore in Villefranche and St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, east of Nice. Allow time for a walk out onto the tropical paradise peninsula of Cap d’Antibes, or for an hour or two lolling on the coast’s famous pebble beaches. FCannes, Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and Cap d’Antibes in Chapter 12 By Public Transportation The high-speed TGV travels from Paris through Burgundy and Lyon, then zips through the south to Marseille. Train connections to Beaune from the TGV are easy; getting to Autun from Beaune takes up to two hours, with a change at Chagny. Vézelay can be reached by bus excursion from Dijon or Beaune. Rail connections

CÔTE D’AZU R

are easy between Arles and Avignon; you’ll need a bus to get to the Pont du Gard from Avignon. Antibes, Cannes, and Nice are easily reached by the scenic rail line, as are most of the resorts and ports along the coast. To squeeze the most daytime out of your trip, take a night train or a plane from Nice back to Paris.

A CHILD’S-EYE VIEW Make your way through Normandy and Brittany, with enough wonders and evocative topics to inspire any child to put down his computer game and gawk. Paris 2 days. Paris’s major museums, like the Louvre, can be as engaging as they are educational—as long as you keep your visits short. Start out your Paris stay by giving your kids an idea of how the city was planned by climbing to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. From here work your way down the Champs-Élysées toward Place de la Concorde. Stop for a puppet show at the Marionettes des Champs-Élysées, at Avenues Matignon and Gabriel, halfway down the Champs. Continue walking

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France Lodging Primer

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FRANCE LODGING PRIMER down the Champs, to the Jardin des Tuileries, where kids can sail boats on a small pond. Then taxi or hike over to the Louvre for an afternoon visit. Your reward? Stop in at Angélina (on Rue de Rivoli, across the street), a tearoom famous for its thick hot chocolate. If you want to see the puppet show, do this on a Wednesday, Saturday, or Sunday. The next morning, head to the Eiffel Tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city. After you descend, ride on one of the Bateaux Mouches at Place de l’Alma, nearby. Then take the métro to the hunchback’s hangout, Notre-Dame Cathedral. Finish up your Paris visit by walking several blocks over, through the center of the Ile de la Cité, to Paris’s most storybook sight—the Sainte-Chapelle, a fairy-tale, stained-glass chapel that looks like a stage set for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. FParis in Chapter 2 Versailles 1 day. Here’s an opportunity for a history lesson: with its amazing Baroque extravagance, no other monument so succinctly illustrates what inspired the rage of the French Revolution. Louis XIV’s eyepopping château of Versailles pleases the secret monarch in most of us. FWestern Ile-de-France in Chapter 3 Honfleur 1 day. From this picture-book seaport lined with skinny half-timber row houses and salt-dampened cobblestones, the first French explorers set sail for Canada in the 15th century. FHonfleur to Mont-StMichel in Chapter 5 Bayeux 2 days. William the Conqueror’s extraordinary invasion of England in 1066 was launched from the shores of Normandy. The famous Bayeux tapestry, showcased in a state-of-the-art museum, spins the

tale of the Battle of Hastings. From this home base you can introduce the family to the modern saga of 1944’s Allied landings with a visit to the Museum of the Battle of Normandy, then make a pilgrimage to Omaha Beach. FHonfleur to Mont-StMichel in Chapter 5 Mont-St-Michel 1 day. Rising majestically in a shroud of sea mist over vacillating tidal flats, this mystical peninsula is Gothic in every sense of the word. Though its tiny, steep streets are crammed with visitors and tourist traps, no other sight gives you a stronger sense of the worldly power of medieval monasticism than Mont-St-Michel. FHonfleur to Mont-St-Michel in Chapter 5 St-Malo 1 day. Even in winter you’ll want to brave the Channel winds to beachcomb the shores of this onetime pirate base. In summer, of course, it’s mobbed with sun seekers who stroll the old streets, restored to quaintness after World War II. FNortheast Brittany and the Channel Coast in Chapter 6 Chartres 1 day. Making a beeline on the autoroute back to Paris, stop in Chartres to view the loveliest of all of France’s cathedrals. FWestern Ile-de-France in Chapter 3 By Public Transportation Coordinating a sightseeing tour like this with a limited local train schedule isn’t easy, and connections to Mont-St-Michel are especially complicated. Versailles, Chartres, and St-Malo are easy to reach, and Bayeux and Honfleur are doable, if inconvenient. But you’ll spend a lot of vacation time waiting along train tracks.

If your France fantasy involves staying in a historic hotel with the smell of freshbaked croissants gently rousing you in the morning, here’s some good news: you need not be Ritz-rich to realize it. Throughout the country, you’ll find stylish lodging options—from charming hotels and intimate B&Bs to regal apartments and grand country houses—in all price ranges. Hotels Rates are always by room, not per person. Sometimes a hotel in a certain price category will have a few less-expensive rooms; it’s worth asking about. In the off-season—usually November to Easter (except for southern France)—tariffs may be lower. Always inquire about promotional specials and weekend deals. Rates must be posted in all rooms, with extra charges clearly indicated. Hotel rooms have telephones, television, and private bath unless otherwise noted. When making your reservation, state your preference for shower (douche) or tub (baignoire)—the latter always costs more. Also when booking, ask for a grand lit if you want a double bed. Apartment and House Rentals If you want more spacious accommodations with cooking facilities, consider a furnished rental. These can save you money, especially if you’re traveling with a group. Renting a gîte rural—furnished house in the country—for a week or month can also save you money. Gîtes are nearly always maintained by on-site owners, who greet you on your arrival and provide information on groceries, doctors, and nearby attractions. The national rental network, the Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France, rents all types of accommodations rated by ears

of corn (from one to four) based on comfort and quality criteria. You can find listings for fabulous renovated farmhouses with swimming pools or simple cottages in the heart of wine country. Besides country houses, Gîtes de France has listings for B&Bs, lodges, hostels, and campsites. Bed-and-Breakfasts Chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts) range from simple lodgings with breakfast in a humble home to beautiful rooms in a château with gourmet food. Chambres d’hôtes are most common in rural France, though they are becoming more popular in Paris and other major cities. Check with local tourist offices or private reservation agencies like Hôtes Qualité Paris. Often table d’hôte dinners (meals cooked by and eaten with the owners) can be arranged for a nominal fee. Note that your hosts at B&Bs, unlike those at hotels, are more likely to speak only French. Hostels Hostels offer bare-bones lodging at low, low prices—often in shared dorm rooms with shared baths—to people of all ages, though the primary market is students. Most hostels serve breakfast; dinner and/ or shared cooking facilities may also be available. In some hostels you aren’t allowed to be in your room during the day, and there may be a curfew at night. Nevertheless, hostels provide a sense of community, with public rooms where travelers often gather to share stories. For resources and booking information, see the Travel Smart chapter.

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FODOR’S FRANCE: EXPERIENCE FRANCE COPYRIGHT

W H EN TO GO

Fodor’s is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House, Inc. Distributed by Random House, Inc., New York.

Keep in mind that French schoolchildren have five holidays a year: one week at the end of October, two weeks at Christmas, two weeks in February, two weeks in April, and the two full months of July and August. During these times travel in France is truly at its peak season, which means that prices are higher, highways are busier, the queues for museums are long, and transportation is at its most expensive. Your best bet for quality and calm is to travel off-season. June and September are the best months to be in France, as both are free of the midsummer crowds. Try to avoid the second half of July and all of August, when almost everyone in France goes on vacation. July and August in southern France can be stifling. Paris can be stuffy and uncomfortable in August. Many restaurants, theaters, and small shops close, but enough stay open these days to make a low-key, unhurried visit a pleasure. Anytime between March and November will offer you a good chance to soak up the sun on the Côte d’Azur. If Paris and the Loire are among your priorities, remember that the weather is unappealing before Easter. If you’re dreaming of Paris in the springtime, May is your best bet, not rainy April. But the capital remains a joy during midwinter, with plenty of things to see and do.

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Excerpted from Fodor’s France (ISBN 978-1-4000-0473-7). AN IMPORTANT TIP & AN INVITATION

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